taking off and faking off.
Faking off - How to win a loss in the surf
Sep 4
Not many surfers work, those that do sometimes own cars - we examine this peculiarity
Harry did not see himself as a diarist. He wrote to be able to know men better. To understand.
Randy Leclolp and Fanning - into the semis ?
Teahupoo, it's about what you wear too ..
Meet one of the new Pros at Teahupoo, Trooper Swatch, he's after the crown.
Today, in part 2of 4, we look at a competitor who fears no-one, least of all Jack Johnson, and we add to the Dora legend.
We look at the lower contestant order at the B'Bong Pro in Tahiti, join us in this voyage of 4 parts.
We would sit there discussing which cliff, which fishing rockbase, which airy void we would monkey around on today. All of us all of fourteen. We liked the blackfish best, the striped Luderick.
A young prostitute blazes away on her wet nighttime corner, igniting the pale blur of a face in every car that rubbers by in the winter rain.
A perfect young man slides into a spare seat and connects his laptop and iphone and ipod and earphones - his girlfriend is looking at her palm, there must be a phone in there somewhere - they do not speak. Every now and then he tosses back his long hair and rakes his fingers through the curls, he has a stain on the back of his shirt.
Why people with dogs on beaches should be denied citizenship ..
That funny little man with the glasses there, and the shorts .. This is his story.
Read one explanation here Monday 5 pm US time ..
She was a small and beautiful girl, a capricious and effervescent youngster whose light shone bright at Bondi - her shining beacons were of brightness and naivety