hawsers, rough water, snapper gullys. going fishing. another thong.
He's not a legend - he was always magoo. This was Bondi.
an australian wishing list - for christmas
tattoos and macaronis. absinthe and assertive women. the mentawis.
the surfer's shrinkage, or how to deal with a woman's righteous expectations
advice to the youth who must juggle true love with surfing responsibility
nothing much wrong with this number -
Then it's a pity for the poor sod who thinks that he can preserve his spot in the line-up when the working men arrive and paddle over and around and through him. They swarm like ants and feed like sharks, and his day is over.