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who watches waves?

Sydney is usually an unhappy place to surf because surfers are the masters of subjecting stress upon each other. From the carpark at dawn to the RSL on Friday nights and if the Dogs are playing at home then the ground they play on.

Not that surfers impose this stress upon their blood brothers, it’s you and me who wear it. But we still sit inside them; it help lifts the gloom.

Imagine quality Rockpools in broad sunlight in summer and deserted. You have fled your car and are taking on that downward run to the beach as if the hounds of hell had been loosed to find you.

They growl in the distance, like builders’ utes. There’s the stress, and here you are running along the beach looking at empty point surf. And who runs when they have all afternoon to get out?

The stressed guy, he runs.

The other day at some place only Steve Shearer and I know about a man sat and watched six blokes out on waves that Sydney would bleed money for. Waves swinging around a point and into the smoother water, showing up as near and wide, fat bits and fast bits – long bits. And an outside set every twenty minutes.

Six out, two of them kooks. So only four out. A grassy hill in the sun overlooking miles of distant coast looking at wave after wave come in and go away. Take away the stress and you can fall asleep watching that stuff.

pic lifted from freeride voice

8 Comments Post a comment
  1. Sounds good to me Pete!

    April 5, 2013
  2. Ben #

    Nail on head. It’s very rare for me not to run when I spot an empty lineup. It’s as involuntary as peeing in my wetsuit once I’m in and paddling. Ther are lots of us on theis damp and dreary island.

    I hate to be pedantic ,but I will. It seems to me that there are at least 6 other blokes in on your secret. Is this Steve Shearer reliable?

    April 6, 2013
  3. I could sit and watch waves from sunup to sundown…and then some

    April 7, 2013
  4. Jo, would you like to meet Shearer? He could use some advice on hats.

    April 7, 2013
  5. Now Bowes, you know that Rockpools doesn’t break in summer.(for normal people) Your not confused with North Shore’s Rockpiles that breaks in the same months as our summer.

    April 8, 2013
  6. I have some photos here somewhere, the joint was so good even Realsurf didn’t get them that day, plus I couldn’t handle another snub from Mr Hynd, bless him.

    April 8, 2013
  7. God bless him for he has left us for greener pastures.
    A near neighbour Pete ?

    April 8, 2013
  8. Having Mr Kidman up the road in the green hills is blessing enough

    April 8, 2013

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