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the punt

only losers know the feeling

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a surfing odyssey.

another surfing life

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the alzheimer test

nigel the trolly-boy and the woolworths lovely

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appearances are nothing

it takes one to know one

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the bondi beach‌ ‌club‌ – amalfi style

Someone should tell Janek how good sand tastes in a lobster morney when there's a thirty knot southerly blowing ashore

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contact

She was dressed in a faded blue frock that looked as old as she was,

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revenge ..

.. something had to be done.

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night fishing and watermelon rinds

fishing is not all it appears to be

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parker

I think of that old rascal often, and my right ear rings unceasingly.

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the privileged at play

Without the uniforms they are just like us  .. with them, they become something else.

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the hat and the beard

surfers are a primitive race

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byron bay, hollywood, batshit and bicycle seats

Byron Bay, part of the Paradise Nation where all is love and gentleness and the giving out of good vibes.

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the strata committee and the surfer

notices of transgression

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party etiquette in the early sixties

These were the times we lived in, when surfing relationships were both inter-generational and intricately intertwined in an atmosphere of mutual trust and understanding.

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problems pertaining to the early surfing years in australia

Surfing in the 50's and 60's was a fraught business

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how I survived being educated by the christian brothers

a bloke has to grow up sometime

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aggression

toot toot

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things we never did

various conditions and rules that govern a man's enjoyment of the waves

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a couple of bowral old boys

how sweet it was

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there is much to regret

.. and I have a few

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the solution to being a very old ex-surfer

he gets creative out of the water

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the problem with being a very old ex-surfer

A wave is not just a wave ..

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Melbourne. Now.

Words by Toby McCorquodale

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daz

two men

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smoked cod, cliff richards and living dolls

It's very debilitating.

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