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two dooleys

Anyone who has been surfing long enough has a collection of boards stashed somewhere – in the garage, under the house, bracketed to a feature wall of the apartment. Boards you’re too old to ride.

See that little old grey-head shambling into the Lennox hotel at 10:30 am, he was the Master of The Pass for one day in 1964.

This is what he’s got in his shed.


Header pic is Algae Reid at Lennox in the same year, back when he could bend.

the cowboy and the plumber

Next week it will look like nothing ever happened.

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another australia day

where else?

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an enquiry into appearances


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Pic by Uge @ Aquabumps  … from Bronte

the man with shaking hands

battling through ..

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how to deal with tribalism

The fixated pure and unadulterated hatred of having to deal with strangers in the waves.

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the cabbie was a big man ..

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nick’s little sucker

the pool business

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lunch with mick

nothing changes

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the never ever again


pic by simon hayward: avalon, July ’17

the oldest quiver

a stack of sixteen

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the kid in the blunt slut t shirt

tales from the bank queue

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