Apr 9
If you have a closer look at the bench against the club wall here you might think it’s the same one where one of the greatest surfers of the longboard era sat and sunned himself over sixty years ago. He’s long gone now and rarely remembered but for a few of us who were youngsters when this bloke was in his prime and are now pushing eighty.
Age creeps, then rushes.
If a soldier shoots an enemy in the back after the enemy has dropped his weapon and run away .. is it murder?
Happened to find this today, thought some old-timers out there might be interested.
Feb 18
MI6 aptitude test .. question 143
‘All happy families are alike; each unhappy family is unhappy in its own way.’ Anna Karenina, by Leo Tolstoy.
Bloke rings me up a few weeks ago, says he’s Angus Fontaine and he’s writing an article for the Guardian and wants to talk about Kevin Brennan, being fifty years since he died. Bit of a memory test there but the longer we talked about Head the more came to mind.
The article was published today, here.
Header pic by Jack Eden
Keep your Tom Curran, Kelly Slater, Midget, Bobby Brown, Nat, Mick Dooley, all those fabulous heroes of the surf .. they amount to nothing when we acknowledge not only the master of the surf, but master of the nation that surfs .. in fact the many nations that surf.
A man held in great respect, a man adept in so many disciplines but able to conquer the wild surf with consummate ease, an iceman in the raging seas. The real Waterman
And he’s a natural. Plus he seems to be a good bloke, despite being a Pom.
pic is of king Charlie at Bondi .. way back then, and not a bad effort for first off.
petebowes.com 