main beach byron bay, reading waves and oral sex.
Nobody else can catch him. They're just milling around out there getting closed out and whumped as he streaks out of the pack again.
Feb 28
Nobody else can catch him. They're just milling around out there getting closed out and whumped as he streaks out of the pack again.
This ocean sport has no rules and no joining fees - it's open slather out there and egos play with whales.
Two women lying face to face by the low dune, talking. Miranda Kerr with her back to me and a dusky Nefertiti topless. Just a glance.
This year he wants a shot at Lennox and the longer the bastard talks the bigger the chance is that we will actually take him out there.
Once longboarders were like us; savage and uncompromising, greedy and slit-eyed, cold-blooded and cunning. Handsome, virile and able to leap tall buildings with a single stride.
How can it bad be to have thousands of Japanese and Brasilians going home with no idea as to how to ride a wave, despite the lessons.
The hidden right that rears up around the headland down there and travels 300 yards to its brutal end against the cliffs. More unforgiving slabs.
But first, dinner.
I'm for promoting this image. Surfers were always meant to be ungovernable.
Everybody in marketing plays squash and lives close to Darlinghurst Road. You suspect their sexuality, generally speaking.
And nobody knows the feeling.