Not everything is bad ..

by peterbowes on October 31, 2026

I watched him walking up to his car, just coming in after a session at Lighthouse Beach, which by the way had some seriously thumping swell this morning; some of the North Wall sets looked extremely choice; long, fast right-handers.

Back to our guy.

Sometimes after having a couple of hours in that ^ stuff a man comes ashore wishing he had never caught that last wave, should have let it go by and caught the one behind it, asamatteroffact this bloke was wishing he never got out of bed this morning. A broken board will do that, and of course it’s the only one he owned. And it’s only a month old.

And you don’t need some old duffer in the carpark telling you that back in the day a broken board meant two kids got the pieces to learn to surf with.