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early is the hour

Carnal misfits and darker waters.

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surfers who work ~ what to wear?

The temptation to rip a piece of metal from the unresisting flesh of an apprentice may well be impossible to resist - kindly take this as a warning.

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melbourne and its attractions

Stayed in a Lygon Street hotel (bookshops, Italian touts outside all the dud restaurants) and all about 20 walking minutes from city centre . Lovely pub, not too pricey, and lots of very friendly young men hanging around the lobby - wanting to see my room. So many interior decorators down there.

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surfers who work ~ ambience in the workplace

Neighbours to the site should also be expected to have towels, wetsuits and surfboards draped hung and lent on their fences and shrubs. They should expect that their water supply be made available, their daughters admired, their cars ridiculed, their driveway rights ignored, and their hearing diminished.

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pan-fried crumbed snapper with anchovies.

- and there .. ! The distant white trail of a surfer gliding down the black face of the fourth wave. The biggest of the set.

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the kimono girl ~ china stories 2

Everyone is drunk. Young Chinese men roam around the room with their bottles, demanding a fair sharing of the rotgut - they jam their bottle necks into the white faces demanding a toast.

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the stomp, the dance of demolition.

The Stomp was never a dance; it was a stamping grinding deafening assault on the integrity of whatever building was unwisely hosting the event. It was a wrecking ball, a demolition dance, a brutal thing

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the bondi astra, barry, and the death cut

There was so much sand on the floor of the public bar at closing time that the tiles were covered, and after twenty years all the colours had been rubbed away, sandpapered off by the bare feet of a generation of shoeless drinkers.

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never marry the bass player

How quickly a fragrant aftershave sours to funk when the stranger's breath down the back of your neck is misinterpreted. They started twitching after fifteen minutes, chucking little girly stares over their shoulders at me, getting all agitated.

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billie holiday – nina simone ~ strange fruit

When Holiday performed the song in her nightclub acts she always closed with it, the waiters stopped serving and all the lights were turned off bar the one pin spotlight onto her face

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west of byron bay

Al is a Dylan man, lifelong, plus he has no nighttime eyesight – and his emphysema betrays a swamped puddle of rotted lungs – yet he smokes and smokes.

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make them all look the same. revisited

jargon and splice

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it helps to be a right bastard sometimes

surfers ..! bastards to a man.

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bloodlines

A city of prayer for the young dead, fathers and sons. A home of mourning and sorrow, where victory wept hardest.

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absolutely bloody warranted homophobia

- about halfway through this punishing dune routine to the Joey and back the other day our suffering solitary stalwart surfer almost trips over a chap lying in the bloody NUDE on the track.

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we must ABOLISH professional surfing

The drabness and predictability (even at its most spectacular) of professional surfing today can be found in the attitude of today’s professional surfers, which can be summed up in one word – prosperity.

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the chinese wedding party ~

A couple of sallow faced youths trailed their elders, holding long strings of fresh explosives. They were smoking, looking up at the windows, laughing.

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skipping stones over flat water when there’s bugger all else to do

I would like to write about Mr. Russell Byars. Russell doesn't surf, he chucks rocks. In fact he's a champion at it.

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pascal bompard

"While researching a possible career in illustration, and being a keen surfer, I noticed that the genre of "surf art" had potential, but was also cluttered with some of the worst kitsch I'd yet seen." Pascal Bompard.

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leroy grannis

" What bothers me is that the top magazines are pushing professionalism. These young kids get the idea they want to be professionals and let everything else go - including their education. That's the wrong way to go… I've seen a lot of kids go down the drain trying to become professionals." Leroy Grannis

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norman and his tides

Apprenticed to the land thereafter and never one for footwear. His sister’s favourite brother, his mother’s best work.

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positions vacant, a job in the IT / surfing industry

Thank you for your applications, the job is taken, you are out of luck, get a life and go north, there is nothing for you here.

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john galliano – could surfing go this way?

This is John Galliano. He doesn't surf. John's into fashion, no surprise eh?.

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sea of joy, a film by paul witzig, music by tully

Wayne Lynch's cutback remains contemporary, and Nat's antenna -hand still looks ridiculous, and why didn't Ted Spencer ever stand up straight?

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robert heeley

Mr Heeley (the artist) has got credentials, plenty of credentials, he also has a fine eye for the essence of a set of extremely georgeous peelers on a hot day - Just pretend it's Byron Bay in 1905 from the Pandanus cove, only you and me are there - and it's your turn to go out.

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