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you should have been here last century, bro ..

For starters:

YOU weren’t there

Balsa felt better
Blokes in cars with boards waved to other blokes in cars with boards
Voodo was a trek
Broken Head was an epic trek
Small boys were never seen in the line-up
Balsa looked better
Young ladies were also never seen in the line-up
Riding a board was unfashionable
You could get a cup of tea from the bloke shaping your board
– then he would deliver
Beer was stronger
Paddling out with a lighted smoke was a radical manoeuvre
Boards were big enough to go double with your best mate’s girlfriend, (she was the one in a bikini)
Nobody who lived north of Newport surfed
Beer was cheaper
Souths always won
Only three blokes in your year at school surfed
Board shorts were made of canvas

Nobody stopped at Lennox
Wax came in BLOCKS
Hardly anybody had a car
The Terrigal Haven worked every Easter weekend
Manly had a Pool hall
You didn’t need a girlfriend to do The Stomp
There were Milkbars

Everybody smoked tobacco

Drugs were aspirin

Mum kept your dinner warm in the oven when a latey was necessary

^ pic: woody brown cranking it around, 1950

header pic: nathan adams by nolan hall jan 11, steamer lane

22 Comments Post a comment
  1. This post is certain to keep me in a dream-state all day – visions of glory – romanticised or not – I love reading about them… nice one…

    October 30, 2011
  2. Be like me bear, just believe it was all golden – reality doesn’t go backwards. ta

    October 30, 2011
  3. “Those were the days, my friend
    We thought they’d never end”

    Not that I was a surfer, but yes, times were different last century! 🙂

    October 31, 2011
  4. whaddabout those lads of yours team, reckon they might have a shot at it?

    October 31, 2011
  5. I reckon they might, you know. Mr O Jnr 2 particularly is a water baby. He has been rescued in the local pool once already. Absolutely NO fear of water at all.

    They ALL start swimming lessons next week – it was to be this week, but tomorrow (lesson day) is Melbourne Cup Day so I am guessing no lessons this week. I’m about to check.

    October 31, 2011
  6. You should go and watch Midnight in Paris.

    November 1, 2011
  7. Woody Allen, Left Bank – I can see the surfing relevance bec

    November 1, 2011
  8. Rebecca #

    It’s a tribute to and a critique of nostalgia and the golden past. That, here at least, has everything to do with surfing culture.

    November 1, 2011
  9. We resent that implication, this is a place of pertinent relevance – we (the committee) are considering banning you from further comment.

    – besides, I would have punctuated the comment differently.

    (bloody storms up here are frightening lately are they not)

    November 1, 2011
  10. Rebecca #

    Re: punctuation.

    I’m commenting from my (not i but smart) phone. Modern, contemporary, relevance by the bucket-load. Not a shred of nostalgia to be seen!

    November 1, 2011
  11. workman, tools – that is a completely unacceptable response which will not diminish the extent and gravity of the judgement already in draft motion – your plea is extinguished.

    (five bets to win and not a donkey of mine up today – again)

    November 1, 2011
  12. Mike #

    Typewriters give the words some grime and some grit. Like a garage band before a producer “finishes” the sound and renders it boring.

    Phones are the tools of the vacant who fail to communicate, let alone type.

    But it is fast and easy and therefore terribly contemporary.

    November 3, 2011
  13. Rebecca #

    Aw, Mike still hates me. That’s so cute!

    November 3, 2011
  14. Karen #

    ‘Blokes in cars with boards waved to other blokes in cars with boards.’ Says it all.

    November 4, 2011
  15. Well, admittedly we waved little more than a finger at the mugs from maroubra –

    November 4, 2011
  16. Karen #

    Ah. The truth comes out, unclouded by the veil of nostalgia.

    November 5, 2011
  17. mike #

    Love Rebecca, mad hippy love.

    November 5, 2011
  18. You should probably get that seen to, Mike.

    November 9, 2011
  19. Mike #

    heehee RO.

    November 9, 2011
  20. the way I see him ‘bec is that he’s about 6’5″ with black hair, broad shoulders, a trace of old acne scars, a lot of back hair and he wears crushed linen – perhaps we can manage an intro?

    November 9, 2011
  21. In hell.

    November 9, 2011
  22. So what am I going to do with the $250 he sent me? Plus he’s looking to buy at Suffo, that new development with five units per 10 sq metres – how wonderful that’s going to be in 10 years ..

    November 9, 2011

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