inertia and surf dr. guillaume barucq – how your jock itches
Everybody is looking at his groin now
Ever heard of the Gamblers Fallacy ?
You only own a wave when you're on it, like you only own the air when you breathe it.
Like all other surf films of the modern Era, the brown man of the third world is treated like an exotic and warm visual prop.
we'll have 'em all, one by one. Just for fun.
- or how to be a leader in the line-up
Line up the last 35,000 surfers who threw their money at suspect charter-boat operators working western Sumatra - bring them in
His warm blood bubbled away down his face and into his gasping mouth.
The blokes looked pretty ripped come to think about it
The two basic rules of surfing are that - you have to be on a wave - you have to be on your feet.
what we don't need to see is the dance floor kit in the water.
We would sit together in the back room, just the two of us, talking about Eternity