you’re only as good as your last wave
Why you should stop surfing at 29 for the sake of the youth.
Archive for
Nov 30
8 Comments
surfing archetypes – the raaf & the Indo expat bastards
We should all be about 55+ and firing up a Marlboro prior to slipping out at some Indo point. We should all be lean and brown and supple enough to squat like a Dayak.
surfing archetypes. the chick magnet bastards
People who don't make you feel good about yourself
south – father harry and elsie. story 6
father harry. silent jack. elsie the dog. cricket.
south – the visitor. story 5
cockerels and dogs. chester, eggs. monty and boiled crayfish. eternity.
the buffet, the blood –
Noosa. Abandoned to hope, lost to influence and old money, overbuilt and overcome. Noosa, poisoned with wealth. Noosa, the shadow home of the Kabis, stripped of its forests.
south – the first day. story 3
the three dogs. alf. the lagoon beach. pockets of stuff. spanish guitar.
south – the journey. story 2
the train from beaudesert. stan and alice. a bone handled knife. the destination. the old man in a hat. eden reached.
south – fire at night. story 1
an accident at night. a loss. the orphan. the police call. a departure.
the incalcitrant son
' I've got to take a phone-call from the school Boss on a FRIDAY to learn that all the dough I've been paying to get you to Uni to do God knows bloody what has been pissed up against the wall of the South Bondi Boardriders Club, you filthy little rotten mongrel kid! ...
the hermit at point upright
They left him alone, this silent man on his resolute path to the sea.
I don’t come from there anymore
Scoresby has a smile that doesn’t quite reach his eyes and how these do they beam a steadfast and penetrating gaze on me as I fidget with a notebook and pencil.
surfers and their role in the decline of wealth and loss of western influence.
Miki Dora, the prophet of the eventual economic collapse of western civilisation. Read it here first.
drowning but not quite waving
These two didn’t die today as they made the side of the channel and waded onto the bar
through the hotel window, mick’s $20
Mick has long taken to the drink like a lot of Ballina men, and he likes the first one early and the lack of it has determined that he lose a little dignity in his morning routines.
brian’s resignation speech
The day's menu had not been printed and a special celebration gastronome menu used six months previously had been placed on the tables instead. Somebody had written an unthinkable blasphemy on the specials board.
petebowes.com 