bday.the birthday.
the more stuff you have to communicate with the harder it is to get it to work
Archive for
May 30
2 Comments
the cutback – what to look for
Sometimes a man tries to devine what exactly is going on in the pro surfing competitions and comes up with no result. It's all a blur.
being cool means you don’t have to surf, much.
It's ok just to look like you do it - nobody needs to get hurt out there
surfing in the 60’s .. what a bloody shambles.
Nothing is true, all those stories about surfing in the the sixties are fiction.
how having a good cutback gets the best job.
A man is only as good as his last wave - so what if your job depended on it?
Surferwatch.
outward bound: this is personal
The cold dinner in a wet forest where every nighttime beastie needs warm blood.
byron bay cops and long memories
Big fellow Ben - carries an ugly snake bite scar on his face.
petebowes.com 