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bring back the bliss

Remember the bliss of riding a wave, a long uncrowded wave on some lonesome stretch of coastline?

Now we have this.

pic lifted from aquabumps .. ta Uge

Followed by coffee and a chat about times long past. So I’m directing this post at the old Bondi codgers who were there back in the day and like me, sometimes think the old stoke is gone forever. It’s all killer barrels and mechanised surf these days, that and beaches crowded to despair. The art seems to have been subsumed.

Well, maybe … but have a quiz at this bloke and tell me you don’t want to be doing it yourself.. I could watch all day.


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