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the rape palace

Do you just want to buy a few bottles of beer, or do you really want to come in here.

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kooks. what they need to know.

‘ I’m new at surfing and would like to know how one would define a kook?’ - this question answered here at length.

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gary birdsall, his art

Gary Birdsall's name should be whispered with great reverence, he has credentials - he's from Cronulla and he's a goofy foot. Gary also likes to do a bit of art .
Come with us on the journey.

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the great tsunamis

the great tsunamis 1293 to 2004

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koyaanisqatsi – life out of balance

The reason that director Godfrey Reggio excluded any dialogue in the film was that he thought that language was in a vast state of humiliation.

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advice to the school leaver

Journalism is less a profession and more of a form of trench warfare where the journalist’s trench sits midway between that of the subject of his current blasphemous diatribe and that of his choleric sub-editor.

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another history of bondi

One mile away to the south Bondi would greet the dawn like an overworked whore on a Sunday morning with dozens of French Letters littering her high water mark.

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atlas of australian surfing by mark warren ~ a review

Mr Warren has done well with this modest edition (pub 1988, 232 pages) and has claimed the middle ground of surfing literature with its success. Many Australians bought the book for one of two reasons - (1) it is an atlas and therefore holds promise of detailed maps, graphs and supplementary illustrations of the entire world of surfing and (2) to find out where that tasty left is on the cover.

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Terry T-Shirt

And when the long awaited set finally did arrive the only person in the right position to take it was Terry T-shirt, every bloody time. He had this uncanny knack of being able to time the arrival of the next set of waves, not only that but until his private alarm bell rang he’d be inside pinching all those waves as well, and all alone.

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the corporation and those who dwell in it.

She leaves a faint trail of Chypre fragrance throughout the upper floors and its teak paneled offices and it was her you saw sunbaking naked at Kings Beach four years ago.

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serial killers and surfboat crews

There’s going to be blood and misery out there, pain and humiliation; but after it’s all over some kind of kinship can develop between the sides.'

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harold budd and the cocteau twins

Years ago, when asked about the quality of the current range ambient music and what made his any different budd remarked that in his case he liked to have a little evil in the composition, something a little dark.

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weather report

in the day

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reuben and daphne

The wetsuit zipper strap didn’t survive Reuben’s sharp tug and it came away like a piece of cotton –

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the river kiosk

He sat with us uninvited. He drank. His smile flickered on and off. This lonely old alcoholic.

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the shadow at tallows

The first thing we did wrong was get out of the car.

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the deputy

Today a couple not known to him was standing on the crowded footpath outside the liquor shop. They were drinking beer and talking loudly, angrily. Alec spat and laughed silently to himself as he examined the short red velvet dress worn by the woman.

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marrying a surfer – category 1

They have a masochistic disposition to the wearing of sharp pointed metal trinkets on, or in, their ears, eyes, eyelids, tongues, cheeks, noses, fingers, navels, nipples, toes and genitals. Buttocks for some unfathomable reason have remained free from such mutilation.

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a summer story

Right now Doug decides to pull back the dressing on his ulcer for a looksee, and the swollen wound swallows half his hand before some babe wearing a black lace hanky strolls past, all silky wobble and perve. We observe the moment with a tranquil and hormonal grief as Ken retires into the dank shadows for another piss. Five an hour is the usual but who’s counting.

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marrying a surfer – category 2

Aged anywhere between twenty-five and forty, members of this category write their choice of surfing destinations for the coming weekend in their work diary only after they have completed extensive Internet research involving reading synoptic charts

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brent asato cutting back

This is Brent Asato, he has kindly submitted a snap of himself for criticism and review.

Brent is cutting back.

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Confessions of a Surf Blog Commenter – by mike mantalos

It has been less than three years since I first discovered the medium of the surf blog. As another chapter ends, I find myself questioning how I have become so caught up in the anonymous momentum. Answers become bigger questions, and bigger questions find simpler answers.

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flynn novak cutting back

The first question we must ask of Mr Novak is why is he sitting down on the job? That's a fair bit of effort he has expended in getting up there and this is no time to bundy off.

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marrying a surfer – category 3

Dementia is an affliction that can strike at any age, however, and as demonstration of the potency of its early onset all one needs do is ask oneself to accurately describe the details of any four waves of a ten-wave session immediately after the session has concluded.

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my city

The two drunks finally embraced and the Nissan silently backed over the skull of Mr Steven McCaskey, killing him instantly. Leaving three grandchildren and an abused daughter without a word or sign of his now eternal wait on a harsh judgement.

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