This is the pic that Peter Cole keeps in his pocket. Waimea in '67. Cole is nearly eighty today.
Remember the ancient dictum: Once with a woman, twenty times with a wave - Know your pleasure(s).
Nothing can prepare you for this test; on the one hand we have nestled beside us a beautiful woman full of the juices of love, and on the other a desperate man six hundred miles away from his love of juice
Now the general plan for the evening is to chuck a couple of towels, the wetsuit, a spare T-shirt, the old boardies, the girl and a few bits of fruit into the boot and tie down at least two boards on the roof.
This is Ludovic Navarre and he runs St Germain, a French outfit that dips and sways and in this case grabs a little of John Lee Hooker's voice and guitar.
An Iraqi youth with fingers like talons strikes into his barrel of wet sand with the controlled psychopathic hysteria of a man in hot battle. His back is a griddle of deep hotwire scars earned by his insolence and fortitude in the dungeons of Abu Ghraib.
why food and drink and karaoke are a dangerous combination
Proof that surfing is art, or music .. or the classical pursuit of an epehemeral moment that weds the sea to the violin.... whatever.
The chance of attaining a paying career that provides a lifetime of intellectual challenge or the opportunity to get amongst the BIG money early; the expensive drugs, the attractive companions, the foreign cars with faux-walnut dashboard fascias. Ivy Bar membership and quality sexual encounters in public places.