The kid has completely stuffed it, he's probably paddled out into the middle of a local comp that he wasn't invited to and decided to chuck a few heavy swathes.
These lads are known to meet from time to time around one of the tables of the Great Northern in Byron Bay with their part Filipina grandchildren squabbling around underfoot, and they mutter and grumble over their drinks about typhoons and squalls, and Catholic wives.
Bill Tilman was a knuckled down kind of man with a gouged out architrave of a forehead that looked lined like an in-coming groundswell, he sucked a pipe that would have satisfied a room full of potheads and he washed as insincerely as does any Englishman in the tropics.
His trail though shows his great professionalism in that it demonstrates how he has translated a quick forehand turn midway up the face into a powerful arc back - Big man, lots of weight, easy wave, slackarse photographer - He could have done better, the snapper that is.
Wherein sat young Jason Baldwin all packed up and alone in the backseat, strapped fast into an iron chair bolted solid into the steel chassis, sat there with his ten year-old head rested, twisted, and for every day of his short lived life jammed, no, pushed hard onto his right shoulder.
Thirty tankers stuck in a twenty-day queue, each crewed by about twenty Filipinos and Malays, some of them wholly addicted and fully prescribed to pornography and boredom, all of them living together in the festered and tubercular damp of old rusted cabins.
Aub Laidlaw also had a very big problem with women in small two-piece swimming costumes – so much so that he took to measuring them when he was unsure of their legality, being a measurable requirement of municipal morality ordained by the local council at the time,
We were sitting around the table in the Rose Bay Hotel with Scoresby and a couple of hard faced Maoris watching the races and waiting on a feed of Singapore noodles, a specialty of Mr. Ngyuen, Charles.
Nice chap Charles, seasons his chips with garlic and chopped chives
A collective drunkenness slowly took hold of the crowd as the night grew older and a group of local girls took a liking to the empty dance floor and all the eyes that surrounded it, beginning what became a stampede to rhythm as every man in the room rushed in to join them.
He would usually brew up his White Lady at dawn, mixing a fearsome combination of banana skins, half a pint of milk and a pint of methylated spirits; and we boys used to wonder at the tumultuous state of his mind after he had sucked back this poisonous brew; when the echo of his laughter rose above the roar of the surf.