michael peterson cutting back
Knees right, backside right, leading and trailing arms right – he’s watching the front of his board with his right eye and the degree of slope left to him with his left, already we can see the reverse of direction he’s contemplating. His fingers are relaxed, even. His whole body structure in this frozen instant is not unlike that of a dancer, there is speed and a delicacy.
– and even if he pops his single fin there’s enough buried rail there to keep directional control. The rooster tail is a signature of his timing and unlike some of the chaps who indulge themselves these days – MP has no interest in what he has left behind him
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Who said you shouldn’t speak ill of the dead?
Not me, for one.
Picture this… North Avalon early 1970s, some nice little right-handers running into the gutter near the rocks. Caught one and rode it into through the shorebreak, stepped off into about 12” of water.
Big guy with wild hair walked up and threatened to punch me in the head.
A little unclear why? But a bit rich considering I was at my home beach.
Great surfer and a flawed human being; the latter, just like the rest of us.
Such is life. 🙂
Damn, I hate a typo/misprint.
Fourth line down should read, ‘Caught one and rode it through the shore-break…’
Sorry, it’ll never happen again. 🙂
rode it into through, I thought that was an Island pull-out ..
Ha ha… maybe that’s what I did? It’s all so long ago now.
That might partially explain Michael’s reaction. 🙂