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michael peterson cutting back

mp by dick hoole

Knees right, backside right, leading and trailing arms right – he’s watching the front of his board with his right eye and the degree of slope left to him with his left, already we can see the reverse of direction he’s contemplating. His fingers are relaxed, even. His whole body structure in this frozen instant is not unlike that of a dancer, there is speed and a delicacy.

– and even if he pops his single fin there’s enough buried rail there to keep directional control. The rooster tail is a signature of his timing and unlike some of the chaps who indulge themselves these days – MP has no interest in what he has left behind him

MP, 1977 stubbies pic by dick hoole

mp by bernie baker - sunset 1974

mp pic by dick hoole

5 Comments Post a comment
  1. Vale, MP.

    March 30, 2012
  2. Peter McClelland #

    Who said you shouldn’t speak ill of the dead?

    Not me, for one.

    Picture this… North Avalon early 1970s, some nice little right-handers running into the gutter near the rocks. Caught one and rode it into through the shorebreak, stepped off into about 12” of water.

    Big guy with wild hair walked up and threatened to punch me in the head.

    A little unclear why? But a bit rich considering I was at my home beach.

    Moral?

    Great surfer and a flawed human being; the latter, just like the rest of us.

    Such is life. 🙂

    September 26, 2013
  3. Peter McClelland #

    Damn, I hate a typo/misprint.

    Fourth line down should read, ‘Caught one and rode it through the shore-break…’

    Sorry, it’ll never happen again. 🙂

    September 26, 2013
  4. rode it into through, I thought that was an Island pull-out ..

    September 26, 2013
  5. Peter McClelland #

    Ha ha… maybe that’s what I did? It’s all so long ago now.

    That might partially explain Michael’s reaction. 🙂

    September 27, 2013

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