michael peterson cutting back
Knees right, backside right, leading and trailing arms right – he’s watching the front of his board with his right eye and the degree of slope left to him with his left, already we can see the reverse of direction he’s contemplating. His fingers are relaxed, even. His whole body structure in this frozen instant is not unlike that of a dancer, there is speed and a delicacy.
– and even if he pops his single fin there’s enough buried rail there to keep directional control. The rooster tail is a signature of his timing and unlike some of the chaps who indulge themselves these days – MP has no interest in what he has left behind him