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another woman’s bed

running through her air

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patience

Just boys, all of us about thirteen.

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the billabong teahupoo 2013 pro – a look at the minor contestants. (5) randy leclolp

Randy Leclolp and Fanning - into the semis ?

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the billabong teahupoo 2013 pro – a look at the minor contestants. (4) rancy pages

Teahupoo, it's about what you wear too ..

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bloodlines

He never returned

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the billabong teahupoo 2013 pro – a look at the minor contestants. (3) trooper swatch

Meet one of the new Pros at Teahupoo, Trooper Swatch, he's after the crown.

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the billabong teahupoo 2013 pro – a look at the minor contestants. (2) rinky dora

Today, in part 2of 4, we look at a competitor who fears no-one, least of all Jack Johnson, and we add to the Dora legend.

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the billabong teahupoo 2013 pro – a look at the minor contestants. (1) ralph karadjdordjic.

We look at the lower contestant order at the B'Bong Pro in Tahiti, join us in this voyage of 4 parts.

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the lady who lived by the abyss.

We would sit there discussing which cliff, which fishing rockbase, which airy void we would monkey around on today. All of us all of fourteen. We liked the blackfish best, the striped Luderick.

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Under a blue sky and calm sea .. a walk into the city.

A young prostitute blazes away on her wet nighttime corner, igniting the pale blur of a face in every car that rubbers by in the winter rain.

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seven months in the gulf

A perfect young man slides into a spare seat and connects his laptop and iphone and ipod and earphones - his girlfriend is looking at her palm, there must be a phone in there somewhere - they do not speak. Every now and then he tosses back his long hair and rakes his fingers through the curls, he has a stain on the back of his shirt.

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dog owners, there is much to hate

Why people with dogs on beaches should be denied citizenship ..

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contact

Street corners - city life

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paranoia

This small man emerged from the shorey and jogged up he beach towards me, he's in a bit of a hurry.

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the challenge 2 * the rise of samsy dwellings

That funny little man with the glasses there, and the shorts .. This is his story.

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Who is this man and WHAT is he doing .. ?

Read one explanation here Monday 5 pm US time ..

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a lost life

She was a small and beautiful girl, a capricious and effervescent youngster whose light shone bright at Bondi - her shining beacons were of brightness and naivety

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it isn’t over boys.

We hurt when someone mentions the days when it was all about catching waves - when we were lean and hungry and as brown as old floorboards.

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session at south avalon

He confided to his little lady that all surfers are saints and the youth of today are an example to all the ages.

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ballet and surfing 3 – wrapping it up

There is an unfortunate misconception about that ballet and surfing are mutually incompatible - follow the thought here ..

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