occy cutting back

The incomparable’s pic of the incomparable’s cutback.(1998 Rocky Point)
Look at how it’s all wrong here – Occy has grabbed the rail, he’s buried his arse and he’s dipped his hand. He’s also not looking where he’s going and the next move is almost impossible to predict.
Look at how it’s all right here – The nugget has put on so much squirt that he has to grab something solid for reference, he’s thrown himself well off-balance with the acceleration and it’s entirely possible he will transfer the rail grab into a rail push to get the forehand edge in and enable him to get out of there. His mission is complete here.
– and we can only imagine the sound that the manoeuvre must be making,
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Yeah Pete, Occy’s surfing isn’t defined within the parameters of fine surfing. Occ is wild and raw, an attack that has no script. He doesn’t know where hes going with this, just testing his strength to murder this wave. He’s pretty damn good about recovering, but a loss of speed (almost dead stop) is certain. I wouldn’t even categorize this as a cutty, just a filthy hack…. for which Mark has a knack.
I like this one, too:
http://surf4ever.wordpress.com/2007/09/28/%C2%BB-occy/
cheers
And the quiff?!! What’s with that?
Sorry, there just is no excuse [other than the never actually heard “I was afraid to try to drive it on edge at speed”] for a grab rail cutback.
I like to think I did it once, I saw the deep track, but I used my fists as counterweights and there I died in the whitewater.
I’ve been trying to do it right for thirty-five years ..