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bring back the bliss

Remember the bliss of riding a wave, a long uncrowded wave on some lonesome stretch of coastline?

Now we have this.

pic lifted from aquabumps .. ta Uge

Followed by coffee and a chat about times long past. So I’m directing this post at the old Bondi codgers who were there back in the day and like me, sometimes think the old stoke is gone forever. It’s all killer barrels and mechanised surf these days, that and beaches crowded to despair. The art seems to have been subsumed.

Well, maybe … but have a quiz at this bloke and tell me you don’t want to be doing it yourself.. I could watch all day.

 

4 Comments Post a comment
  1. Terry Jenkings #

    Cut it out Pete….Surfing without touching the water !!!! Just doesn’t seem real. Seems a bit like carrying out devious activities with an inflated doll !!!! I’m sure the bloke on his hydrofoil did an hours Pilates before he entered ( or stood above) the water He’d be run out of South Bondi back in the day .

    August 15, 2022
    • A couple of local lads have 300 yard runs from the break wall entrance all the way down to Missingham Bridge up here when Lennox is perfect with 200 out. And remember what we said when shortboards first appeared? Then boards with two fins, three fins, FOUR fins!!!!
      Besides, I always liked cruising ….

      August 15, 2022
  2. Gavin Paterson #

    Looks great, I only ever body-surfed, but this looks like it would get you out beyond the breaking- wave scrum, into an unexplored area of swells? Also, gentler on the knees as we age!

    August 15, 2022
    • Just as well they weren’t invented when I was working for you, Gav, a bloke wouldn’t have got to the office until midday.

      August 15, 2022

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