Skip to content

there’s a lot of fish in the richmond river ….

There was a late night not long ago when a young bloke caught a small bull shark down there

Read more

the start of surfing .. BY ANDY (CAPS) COCHRAN

there were not many of us

Read more

help wanted

your confidentially is assured

Read more

the stew

the great unwashed

Read more

sometimes a man cannot resist ..

.. and must speak up.

Read more

linked in

It's good to be remembered

Read more

Hampus Naeselius doesn’t surf

Hampus Naeselius is a Swedish composer living on the island of Mallorca in the Mediterranean where he creates music for film and visual media. His music has been featured in both licensing, TV spots, trailers, advertising and films.

Born in Stockholm music was part of growing up. Pink Floyd and more specifically the song ‘Sorrow’ became the start of creating his own music. Hampus music embodies classical tradition with sweeping spaces of rhythm and sound. IMDb Mini Biography

Hampus doesn’t surf. But what he has done, unknowingly, is put down what is a perfect three minute track for a massive session at Jaws a couple of days after the Eddie finished. Seriously, some of the track overlays are so precise with the vision it was like they were meant for each other.

So turn it up to full bore  .. show your neighbours no mercy.





no place for old men

home is where your heart is ..

Read more

no name – the little right nobody rode


Read more

deterioration ..

or how it all goes wrong

Read more


pic by Marty Olsen

pic by Uge

Well, here we are … 2022 done, 2023 tomorrow.

1,031 posts done since 2010, many of them lifted from Realsurf, more from Kurungabaa, five books produced despite the language and brutal subjects. Readers come and go. Times change. Surfers aged twenty in ‘64 approach 79 in ‘23.

Old friends in the earth, old places overcome, gravel roads now highways and everybody surfs.

But  it’s all good because riding a wave is about the best thing a man or woman can do.

Happy New Year, and always pray for surf.

south – market day. story 17

The fire-eater

Read more

aub laidlaw’s body is a-turnin’ in its grave

he would have been busy this morning ..

Read more

a small silver bream, probably not quite legal

seen through the RSL club's window

Read more

jitta jitta

me and my little mate ..

Read more

rafael, his day …

nothing really matters

Read more

the hotel

We're in town drinking this afternoon. Drinking and talking. Watching.

Read more


a little man, skinny, wiry, deeply tanned ...

Read more

the oldest trick in the barber shop

blink and you'll miss it ..

Read more

%d bloggers like this: