shearer’s ghost
waves twice as big, twice as fast and twice as long.
Dec 23
- and Shearer just whickered away at his dagger blade up the back by the door. Stone on steel.
Like all other surf films of the modern Era, the brown man of the third world is treated like an exotic and warm visual prop.
The two basic rules of surfing are that - you have to be on a wave - you have to be on your feet.