This is Steve Shearer’s photo of Lennox, he took it about July 2013 and put it up onto The FreeRide Voice website after the swell had faded away; there’s a lot of gun locals out there and a man has to be able to buy a drink in the Lennox pub on a Saturday night without being smacked in the carpark on the way in for being a dickhead on a website.
These blokes could teach Avalon many lessons.
I showed this photo to a fellow up in the Eltham pub the other day, name of Pete, he was in there drinking beer and watching the cricket after stringing up a mile or two of fencing nearby. Pete’s as skinny and as brown as an Indo fisherman and he know’s nothing about surfing, doesn’t want to, he abides me because we both worked in the same slaughterhouse a very long time ago.
‘Fuck!’ he says, ‘that’s good.’
This from a bloke who only swims in rivers. Then he says.
‘Howcome none of them are on them?’
I put Shearer’s pic away. Pete had spotted the weakness straight away.
None of the gun locals are on the set waves because of leg ropes is howcome: all those twenty gun locals out there are wearing leg ropes – that’s why none of them are on the set Pete likes. Somebody might do the math on the increase in waves caught by gun locals, in a session, in similar conditions – before and after leg ropes. 1964 and 2014.
Me and you, youth.
Looking at this pic I’d reckon these blokes would fall off at least twice if they caught ten waves in their time in the water, without a leg rope they’d lose half an hour getting back out. A one hour plus session diluted to 30 minutes plus. Five waves down to ten.
Leg rope wins.
What Pete didn’t know was that the before gun locals got tied on to their boards, fifty years ago, on a day like this they would paddle out the back: that’s the phrase, OUT THE BACK! That’s the call.
They’d paddle right past these little black monkeys playing in the middle and park themselves about another 500 feet further out, or as far as it took, then they’d wait for a set, a real one. That’s where everyone got to know each other, during the waiting, these blokes used to practice their diving techniques, bring up some cungy to prove they got to the bottom.
If there had of been just four of them out there today they’d have one each. Waves twice as big, twice as fast and twice as long.
Leg rope loses.