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point joe online. something mr derek hynd didn’t want anyone to see.

1998.

That’s fourteen years since our man walked along the fishermen’s path under the cliffs at Point Joe. June 1998. On a mission for Realsurf. This was a day so rare that only four blokes managed to get the best out of it. And only only one bloke got the shots.

Our man. Our man Larry.

For eight hours that morning he relayed between his computer at Avalon and his station under the overhang at Barrenjoey as the waves of the century came ashore. Four trips each way before the wind shifted just enough to introduce a complexion on the water.

The first four out were Stretch, Northcott, Mr Hynde and somebody else maybe Lynch the Barton. Mr Hynd was using his aircraft carrier which meant he took about an hour to make the outside. Washed down to the carpark three times and then the long walk back. He is such a trudger at times.

And as beautiful as the sets looked, every one took them by surprise early. This meant that none of the surfers knew how to line it up, which meant that none of them had ever surfed Barrenjoey like this before. So big, so perfect. So Colossal.

Larry spoke to Mr Hynd in the carpark later. He was standing around with Northcott and a few others packing up when he mentioned that he’d seen Mr Hynd struggling to get out.

‘Where were you? ‘ asked DH.

‘ On the cliffs, ‘ replied Larry The Eager.

‘ Doing what? ‘

‘ Taking pics all morning for online and immediate worldwide internet distribution. ‘ .. or something like that.

Then there became a deathly silence all around, as the rancid mantle of outcast settled its greasy skin over our mans’ shoulders. Again.

Later that month an account of the day was published in some surfing magazine or other; a pic of TC grinning like a mad boy with the joey whitewater behind him plus a short word from Mr Hynd where he spoke of the tragedy of having a web-based surf reporter taking pics there on the day.

Lots of phones had been ringing in the carpark that morning. Lots of interest as to who was putting up the images.

Larry the Tragedy. This grave judgement from somebody as unblemished as Mr D Hynd, who by all accounts is a stirling young man, though easy to take down in a second-hand car yard. His cars you wouldn’t rent for $25 a month.

We have no doubt that one day he will be applauded mightily as he rises up to the bright lights of the stage to accept his nomination into the Surfers Hall of Eternal Fame. No doubt at all.

And well done him.

~

– and this is the day, and the day after.

~

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hynd image from brett caller blog spot

all joey pics by author

10 Comments Post a comment
  1. Go Northy…

    November 3, 2012
  2. sjh #

    Three cups , one tiny pea
    take a chance
    a chance you will see
    Three cups and one tiny pea.

    PB you continue to overlay & entwine your stories making for many a re read you bastard , great effort this one all sorts of meanings and slights to be found , great distraction over a morning coffee

    November 7, 2012
  3. there’s a book almost, nearly, ready – it goes like this –

    Part one: Bloodlines.
    Bloodlines
    Patience
    Shaper builder
    Erin and the ideology of hate
    The end of Lancaster Road
    A bright future in retailing
    The rape palace
    The house at the top of the pass
    Beyond the break
    Boys in another land
    Tangiers 1964
    The maggot
    Lonely young bones
    Leigh
    The smoke
    The modelling job
    Outward bound: this is personal
    Ari Levi and the oranges
    Another woman’s bed
    His young brother
    The late nights
    Old roads and river mouths

    Part two: Postcards

    Postcard from Suffolk Park
    The gilltrap
    Another history of Bondi
    Early is the hour

    Part three: The killing rooms

    The slaughtermen
    The hide room
    A home of bones and charnel dust

    Part four: Hubcaps for pans

    Vastness as a companion
    Flame-grilled chicken and potato chip crumbs
    Crowdy Head: lobster omelette with mace and red peppercorns
    Kevin (The Head) Brennan does breakfast
    Feral cats, three-rubber spearguns, and bush omelettes
    The holiday van, Tabourie: fresh bream with basil leaves
    Fast food – latkes
    Flathead with shaved garlic and sprig of thyme
    Pan-fried crumbed snapper with anchovies
    Surfers who work: what to eat?
    The Bawley mixture: grilled sourdough with garlic, chilli, anchovy and tomato
    Brian’s resignation speech
    Sausages and ginger marmalade
    Dinner on the Manning: whiting with honey and chilli dust

    Part five: Contact

    A lost life
    The Jewish kid
    The hermit at Point Upright
    The country girl
    Contact
    Norman and his tides
    A shared life
    The Variety Club bus
    Rip and tear
    The cow in the culvert
    The commodore and his orchard
    The shelter
    Tasman gales and the sea road to Eternity
    There is no peace
    New sins
    The Rhodesian swimmer
    Hell on earth
    Reuben and Daphne
    The neighbour’s boy
    Dark beach
    The holy rolling righteousness of haste
    West of Byron Bay
    Bondi lawman
    One thousand years: John’s Eternity
    Clyne’s virus, Darwin’s theory

    Part six: Under a blue sky and calm sea

    The Corso and the passers-by
    The hospital wards
    The Gibraltar nightclub
    The Polverin, Gibralter
    The truant
    The vacant lot
    Euclid, toilet tiles and one percenters
    Under a blue sky and calm sea: a walk into the city
    La Tomatina
    The harbingers of ruin
    Sons of Gallipoli
    Never marry the bass player

    November 7, 2012
  4. davo's liver #

    Hard to pick a favorite in that list, plenty to choose from.

    November 7, 2012
  5. picked by a little lady in the business .. she reckons I overblow what a big deal surfers are

    November 7, 2012
  6. Jimmy #

    Larry, I thought the session in question was the epic NE swell of 2001..?

    November 21, 2012
  7. Could be James, never had a diary. Tracks will have it. Ask Luke, he’s been around here lately.

    November 21, 2012
  8. That was a bit tame, The chapter headings look interesting, not much from the middle years.

    November 22, 2012
  9. That’s the sealed section.

    November 23, 2012
  10. bruce usher #

    sealed for cryogenics or just plain humidity or a lack of middle ear infection

    December 15, 2012

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