Skip to content

point joe online. something mr derek hynd didn’t want anyone to see.


That’s fourteen years since our man walked along the fishermen’s path under the cliffs at Point Joe. June 1998. On a mission for Realsurf. This was a day so rare that only four blokes managed to get the best out of it. And only only one bloke got the shots.

Our man. Our man Larry.

For eight hours that morning he relayed between his computer at Avalon and his station under the overhang at Barrenjoey as the waves of the century came ashore. Four trips each way before the wind shifted just enough to introduce a complexion on the water.

The first four out were Stretch, Northcott, Mr Hynde and somebody else maybe Lynch the Barton. Mr Hynd was using his aircraft carrier which meant he took about an hour to make the outside. Washed down to the carpark three times and then the long walk back. He is such a trudger at times.

And as beautiful as the sets looked, every one took them by surprise early. This meant that none of the surfers knew how to line it up, which meant that none of them had ever surfed Barrenjoey like this before. So big, so perfect. So Colossal.

Larry spoke to Mr Hynd in the carpark later. He was standing around with Northcott and a few others packing up when he mentioned that he’d seen Mr Hynd struggling to get out.

‘Where were you? ‘ asked DH.

‘ On the cliffs, ‘ replied Larry The Eager.

‘ Doing what? ‘

‘ Taking pics all morning for online and immediate worldwide internet distribution. ‘ .. or something like that.

Then there became a deathly silence all around, as the rancid mantle of outcast settled its greasy skin over our mans’ shoulders. Again.

Later that month an account of the day was published in some surfing magazine or other; a pic of TC grinning like a mad boy with the joey whitewater behind him plus a short word from Mr Hynd where he spoke of the tragedy of having a web-based surf reporter taking pics there on the day.

Lots of phones had been ringing in the carpark that morning. Lots of interest as to who was putting up the images.

Larry the Tragedy. This grave judgement from somebody as unblemished as Mr D Hynd, who by all accounts is a stirling young man, though easy to take down in a second-hand car yard. His cars you wouldn’t rent for $25 a month.

We have no doubt that one day he will be applauded mightily as he rises up to the bright lights of the stage to accept his nomination into the Surfers Hall of Eternal Fame. No doubt at all.

And well done him.


– and this is the day, and the day after.


This slideshow requires JavaScript.

hynd image from brett caller blog spot

all joey pics by author

10 Comments Post a comment
  1. Go Northy…

    November 3, 2012
  2. sjh #

    Three cups , one tiny pea
    take a chance
    a chance you will see
    Three cups and one tiny pea.

    PB you continue to overlay & entwine your stories making for many a re read you bastard , great effort this one all sorts of meanings and slights to be found , great distraction over a morning coffee

    November 7, 2012
    • there’s a book almost, nearly, ready – it goes like this –

      Part one: Bloodlines.
      Shaper builder
      Erin and the ideology of hate
      The end of Lancaster Road
      A bright future in retailing
      The rape palace
      The house at the top of the pass
      Beyond the break
      Boys in another land
      Tangiers 1964
      The maggot
      Lonely young bones
      The smoke
      The modelling job
      Outward bound: this is personal
      Ari Levi and the oranges
      Another woman’s bed
      His young brother
      The late nights
      Old roads and river mouths

      Part two: Postcards

      Postcard from Suffolk Park
      The gilltrap
      Another history of Bondi
      Early is the hour

      Part three: The killing rooms

      The slaughtermen
      The hide room
      A home of bones and charnel dust

      Part four: Hubcaps for pans

      Vastness as a companion
      Flame-grilled chicken and potato chip crumbs
      Crowdy Head: lobster omelette with mace and red peppercorns
      Kevin (The Head) Brennan does breakfast
      Feral cats, three-rubber spearguns, and bush omelettes
      The holiday van, Tabourie: fresh bream with basil leaves
      Fast food – latkes
      Flathead with shaved garlic and sprig of thyme
      Pan-fried crumbed snapper with anchovies
      Surfers who work: what to eat?
      The Bawley mixture: grilled sourdough with garlic, chilli, anchovy and tomato
      Brian’s resignation speech
      Sausages and ginger marmalade
      Dinner on the Manning: whiting with honey and chilli dust

      Part five: Contact

      A lost life
      The Jewish kid
      The hermit at Point Upright
      The country girl
      Norman and his tides
      A shared life
      The Variety Club bus
      Rip and tear
      The cow in the culvert
      The commodore and his orchard
      The shelter
      Tasman gales and the sea road to Eternity
      There is no peace
      New sins
      The Rhodesian swimmer
      Hell on earth
      Reuben and Daphne
      The neighbour’s boy
      Dark beach
      The holy rolling righteousness of haste
      West of Byron Bay
      Bondi lawman
      One thousand years: John’s Eternity
      Clyne’s virus, Darwin’s theory

      Part six: Under a blue sky and calm sea

      The Corso and the passers-by
      The hospital wards
      The Gibraltar nightclub
      The Polverin, Gibralter
      The truant
      The vacant lot
      Euclid, toilet tiles and one percenters
      Under a blue sky and calm sea: a walk into the city
      La Tomatina
      The harbingers of ruin
      Sons of Gallipoli
      Never marry the bass player

      November 7, 2012
      • davo's liver #

        Hard to pick a favorite in that list, plenty to choose from.

        November 7, 2012
        • picked by a little lady in the business .. she reckons I overblow what a big deal surfers are

          November 7, 2012
  3. Jimmy #

    Larry, I thought the session in question was the epic NE swell of 2001..?

    November 21, 2012
    • Could be James, never had a diary. Tracks will have it. Ask Luke, he’s been around here lately.

      November 21, 2012
  4. That was a bit tame, The chapter headings look interesting, not much from the middle years.

    November 22, 2012
  5. bruce usher #

    sealed for cryogenics or just plain humidity or a lack of middle ear infection

    December 15, 2012

go ahead

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: