and friends in need
"Once a hotspot for keen surfers, the small beachside suburb of Avalon is now home to a swelling group of young creatives raising their kids away from the rat-race of Sydney."
.. and the day nobody went out
pic by simon hayward: avalon, July ’17
a stack of sixteen
peace on earth
waves twice as big, twice as fast and twice as long.
in your mailbox - every morning
they need to die at least once to learn how not to.
the name game
Some men have eyes that have the flat stare of a dog
Surfing never sucks
This was Mike O'Irish, like a cockroach in a bath.
surfers are wankers
Larry the Tragedy. This grave judgement from somebody as unblemished as Mr D Hynd.
Like most surfers Larry takes an empty carpark score anytime he gets handed one
Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.