ben dickens
the ghost who runs
Aug 30
Anyone who has been surfing long enough has a collection of boards stashed somewhere
The fixated pure and unadulterated hatred of having to deal with strangers in the waves.
How can it bad be to have thousands of Japanese and Brasilians going home with no idea as to how to ride a wave, despite the lessons.
Gone are the suntanned thugs who would lean over the balcony and chuck empty kegs onto the roofs of cars fleeing back to Sydney.
We had nothing but hunger and greed and the tracks we laid are now highways.
Lennox head is more than just a perfect wave - the pub does sausages
The little widow that ran the general store in Lennox was only too happy to make us a sandwich, and when she was out in the back kitchen we helped ourselves to this and that from her shelves – and now, after forty-five years, I know that we were the harbingers of the ruin of Lennox Head.