two dooleys

Anyone who has been surfing long enough has a collection of boards stashed somewhere – in the garage, under the house, bracketed to a feature wall of the apartment. Boards you’re too old to ride.

See that little old grey-head shambling into the Lennox hotel at 10:30 am, he was the Master of The Pass for one day in 1964.

This is what he’s got in his shed.

Header pic is Algae Reid at Lennox in the same year, back when he could bend.