shearer’s ghost
waves twice as big, twice as fast and twice as long.
Dec 23
Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.
Who decides who gets the mike at surfing competitions .. .?
the last wave before dinner
This year he wants a shot at Lennox and the longer the bastard talks the bigger the chance is that we will actually take him out there.
How can it bad be to have thousands of Japanese and Brasilians going home with no idea as to how to ride a wave, despite the lessons.
We had nothing but hunger and greed and the tracks we laid are now highways.
Lennox head is more than just a perfect wave - the pub does sausages
He’s using the grill of a Chrysler 300/300c as a grill top, which makes sense, and for his pans he’s got a couple of full moon hubcaps, nicely chromed.
The little widow that ran the general store in Lennox was only too happy to make us a sandwich, and when she was out in the back kitchen we helped ourselves to this and that from her shelves – and now, after forty-five years, I know that we were the harbingers of the ruin of Lennox Head.