the advantages of standing upright on a wave, considering the choices
Note the stance, flat-footed and just coming off the tail. Upright, head raised. A little speed coming out of the turn.
He’s drifting over to that draw spot over there, that little hollow just under the setting sun. Mt. Warning hidden in the glare.
His board is on a flat plane so he can go up to the lip, or shift on a rail and travel down into the steepening draw and then all around paddler number two.
Then a full three-post slalom around paddlers 3 4 and 5. Fast.
Or maybe something else. Altogether.
pic by angie & kuni takanami