locals a problem? crowds?
What a special little wave that is .. Addictive. Meaningful. Once there was room for about eight in the water. Not any more.
Dee Why Point. Dontals. Rockpools. The Kick. Crackneck. Not any more. Not since 1948. This is the problem.
This is the solution.
There is a need to convince the mature and physically-fit women we love dearly that they need to come surfing with us in the morning, particularly for the early. This of course will involve a fair bit of self-discipline from the other side of the bed. This in many ways. Wives, girlfriends, and the one you’ll ask when she wakes up. We want them down there, in the water at LA at about 4.30 am. All of them.
Women in the water scare sharks away. This is common knowledge, ergo it is fair to assume that women will frighten away young bodyboarders – and given their preponderance @ ^ above – we are looking at clearing half of the problem in the water in less than a week, provided the waves remain of a solid consistency for this, the Cleansing Period. These ladies will have to perform, and we, of course, must let them have their way out there. This is basic. They know best and the rewards will come soon enough.
With the callous biscuit-riding youth gone we have left the ‘ locals ‘ to deal with – down to about eight in number and all very hard men, ugly hard men. Bony little demons all fiery-eyed in the dark as they rip away their clothes and dress in black, to vanish into the cauldrons. Cackling at their good fortune.
Their fall will be the hardest.
Because how can it ever be the same with one of them again when he learns that Rhonda and Jaylene will be there with him in the line-up every morning, regardless of the hour – and Deborah when she’s back from the Mentawis – and look, here comes Anna and Julieanne.
He too will go, the last of the misfits, and now the place is ours.
Have you ever watched a couple of women chatting in the supermarket? .. Say three or four, all just back from an Indonesian surf trip with their husbands. Sunburnt, fit – bleached out. Chatting. Not caring about the shopping, the real reason for being there. Chatting.
It doesn’t stop. It’s a formidable discipline.
So how will it be different in the water? These ladies will natter away for about a third of a session just saying hullo, plus if any of them is in a new outfit that’s about three sets gone under them and over to us. New hair colour? Four sets.
New boyfriend/husband/bloke? Plus I’m pregnant – we’re home free.
header pic is of spencer frost, on his way to school.