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it isn’t over boys.

We hurt when someone mentions the days when it was all about catching waves - when we were lean and hungry and as brown as old floorboards.

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session at south avalon

He confided to his little lady that all surfers are saints and the youth of today are an example to all the ages.

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ballet and surfing 3 – wrapping it up

There is an unfortunate misconception about that ballet and surfing are mutually incompatible - follow the thought here ..

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ballet and surfing – 2 – the layback backhand pig-dog

Imagine Johnny Boy Gomes wrenching off this stunt in 1997 ..

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ballet and surfing – 1 – how to look like a real champ.

surfers and ballet dancers - are they interchangeable? .. today's focus.

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an assault in 3 stages – bondi baths

inexplicable conflict - Bondi and Vietnam

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The El-Nonchalanto or the ‘ Look at Me I’m so Calm ‘ manoeuvre.

How to look like an idiot at Teahupoo

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scott dillon – always a risk

Scott Dillon ain't in the grave yet ..

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the shelter

Sleeping rough, homeless.

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the new surf-pro look for 2016

You wanna be a pro-surfer? .. Well, do Ya? .. The answers are here, and in commercial confidence.

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the gilltrap

Living in Yamba, being part of the great design - all for the love of riding a wave a better way.

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the surfers image, how fashion writers see you .. ..

Imagine. You do copy for an ad agency. They are doing the Surf Look. There will be some hurt.

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the last day, jack ‘ bluey ‘ mayes

there are no deals with the dying ..

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les girls, the boys from the cross come to bondi, things do not go well.

1961, bondi is invaded by the transvestite dancers from the kings cross nightclub, 'the all male review' - everybody hurts

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the left just up from winda woppa, a recipe, a breakfast. trawlermen.

Then they all disappeared over the dunes for every hour of sunlight that the sky allowed them. Away to the distance, that curved sweep of trackless beach.

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the problems in marketing the ‘ bra boys ‘ surf brand internationally, or anywhere.

Billabong, Volcom, Ripcurl, Quiksilver, O'Neill, Dakine ? - or Bra Boys. Buy it or fucken else !! A new approach to Marketing.

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the end of the surf shop – times are a changin’

The real difference between Lady Ga Ga and Mick Fanning. Love and envy.

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clyne’s virus, darwin’s theory.

A snake fell off a ceiling rafter and onto his desk last monday. Clyne pulled back from his keyboard and the snake whipped into his drive.

Quick as that.

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watching andrew kidman

Watching Andrew Kidman from another corner in the room.

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the gibraltar nightclub, the irishman’s wife, the blow, the response, the moroccan shaabi

He could hardly stand. His wife's face was a mess of blood and horror as she watched him come for her again.

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