pro surfing without danger is like golf
How can you fuck up corn chips, cheese and bottled salsa?
Join a surf club, make everybody smile
Language, and taser darts
Getting too old to go?
With surfer's sinus the key to delaying a rush of sea-water coming from the nose is not to look down. This is crucial.
Here's a test to see if there is any of the real surfer left in you.
- and Shearer just whickered away at his dagger blade up the back by the door. Stone on steel.
Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.
We will be slobbering for a share of them because surfers have no shame. We never did, but now we have some money.
With The Manoeuvre it's either the best of times or the worst of times.
Everybody is looking at his groin now
You only own a wave when you're on it, like you only own the air when you breathe it.
men who have been world champions walk the streets; they can be trailed through woolworths, their trolleys eyed.
- or how to be a leader in the line-up
Line up the last 35,000 surfers who threw their money at suspect charter-boat operators working western Sumatra - bring them in
The two basic rules of surfing are that - you have to be on a wave - you have to be on your feet.
what we don't need to see is the dance floor kit in the water.
The Nettle hi-kik, not a point scorer
Muscles are like money, they get wasted.