death requires first, life. by mike mantalos
The kind of place only the wind understands.
Posts from the ‘Works’ Category
Jun 20
4 Comments
the byron on byron – a review
Human nature. There are subtle nuances that make for great entertainment.
I caught a ten-foot wave this morning, what else matters?
Today, June 14, 2012. Wait for the magazines.
cheyenne autumn (1964) – a review
She's in, upside down. Both feet up on Wyatt Earp's chest. Giddyap.
how to know when you’re too old to go
Sammy is the one lying awake and listening to the rumble. Sammy is having doubts.
bday.the birthday.
the more stuff you have to communicate with the harder it is to get it to work
the cutback – what to look for
Sometimes a man tries to devine what exactly is going on in the pro surfing competitions and comes up with no result. It's all a blur.
being cool means you don’t have to surf, much.
It's ok just to look like you do it - nobody needs to get hurt out there
surfing in the 60’s .. what a bloody shambles.
Nothing is true, all those stories about surfing in the the sixties are fiction.
how having a good cutback gets the best job.
A man is only as good as his last wave - so what if your job depended on it?
Surferwatch.
petebowes.com 