the avalon nuggets
peace on earth
May 18
a backwater of bluebottles, stagnant piss and unwashed backpackers
Like most surfers Larry takes an empty carpark score anytime he gets handed one
Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.
With The Manoeuvre it's either the best of times or the worst of times.
Once longboarders were like us; savage and uncompromising, greedy and slit-eyed, cold-blooded and cunning. Handsome, virile and able to leap tall buildings with a single stride.
He comes and goes through the unkempt gardens and weeds, slipping through the back door like a thief - sometimes his mother calls for him.
What may be construed as sex in public places may be something else entirely.
- and there .. ! The distant white trail of a surfer gliding down the black face of the fourth wave. The biggest of the set.
‘ You wanta EXPLAIN,’ exasperates Thommo, ‘ how a man with forty years of surfing this city from Cronulla to the Box has to deal with a hundred racks of dresses and bikinis and every fucken thing under the sun but fucken BOARDSHORTS?‘
The wetsuit zipper strap didn’t survive Reuben’s sharp tug and it came away like a piece of cotton –