reuben and daphne
The wetsuit zipper strap didn’t survive Reuben’s sharp tug and it came away like a piece of cotton –
Jan 20
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the river kiosk
He sat with us uninvited. He drank. His smile flickered on and off. This lonely old alcoholic.
the deputy
Today a couple not known to him was standing on the crowded footpath outside the liquor shop. They were drinking beer and talking loudly, angrily. Alec spat and laughed silently to himself as he examined the short red velvet dress worn by the woman.
marrying a surfer – category 1
They have a masochistic disposition to the wearing of sharp pointed metal trinkets on, or in, their ears, eyes, eyelids, tongues, cheeks, noses, fingers, navels, nipples, toes and genitals. Buttocks for some unfathomable reason have remained free from such mutilation.
a summer story
Right now Doug decides to pull back the dressing on his ulcer for a looksee, and the swollen wound swallows half his hand before some babe wearing a black lace hanky strolls past, all silky wobble and perve. We observe the moment with a tranquil and hormonal grief as Ken retires into the dank shadows for another piss. Five an hour is the usual but who’s counting.
marrying a surfer – category 2
Aged anywhere between twenty-five and forty, members of this category write their choice of surfing destinations for the coming weekend in their work diary only after they have completed extensive Internet research involving reading synoptic charts
brent asato cutting back
This is Brent Asato, he has kindly submitted a snap of himself for criticism and review.
Brent is cutting back.
Confessions of a Surf Blog Commenter – by mike mantalos
It has been less than three years since I first discovered the medium of the surf blog. As another chapter ends, I find myself questioning how I have become so caught up in the anonymous momentum. Answers become bigger questions, and bigger questions find simpler answers.
flynn novak cutting back
The first question we must ask of Mr Novak is why is he sitting down on the job? That's a fair bit of effort he has expended in getting up there and this is no time to bundy off.
marrying a surfer – category 3
Dementia is an affliction that can strike at any age, however, and as demonstration of the potency of its early onset all one needs do is ask oneself to accurately describe the details of any four waves of a ten-wave session immediately after the session has concluded.
jay alders – ‘ right past the light ‘
Mr Jay Alders does not muck around with surfers' feet.
the adventures of rick oahu ~ chapter 3 ~ a killing in macau
Their wounds suggest that they had both had their sternums ripped open by bare claw
sunny garcia cutting back
This is the Hawaiian way. Mr Garcia obviously had something else on his mind when he grabbed the big board this day, however that has not stopped him from a wholesome attack on this baby wave.
yeehaw .. ! by pamela neswald
Pamela has painted a reasonably heavy woman wearing a skivvy and string bikini bottom riding a yellow board on a blue wave. The woman is sans brassiere, unattractively so. She is also wearing lipstick, eye-liner and earrings. She is surfing. Somebody needs help here.
stephanie gilmore cutting back
Ms Gilmore's face shows the strain of getting it back around and being a comp she probably hopes that the beerpigs in the judging tent aren't as sharp as they are paid to be.
jim banks cutting back
Jim banks is a bit of a throwback, yet this manoeuvre is half way between Kanga, Rasta, and a plane crash.
the cronulla riots – only a surfer knows the feeling
An lucid examination of the social aspects of the Cronulla race riots of December 2005 ..
petebowes.com 