spiked
The Spanish Inquisition and going barefoot.
Jun 1
4 Comments
bday.the birthday.
the more stuff you have to communicate with the harder it is to get it to work
the cutback – what to look for
Sometimes a man tries to devine what exactly is going on in the pro surfing competitions and comes up with no result. It's all a blur.
being cool means you don’t have to surf, much.
It's ok just to look like you do it - nobody needs to get hurt out there
surfing in the 60’s .. what a bloody shambles.
Nothing is true, all those stories about surfing in the the sixties are fiction.
how having a good cutback gets the best job.
A man is only as good as his last wave - so what if your job depended on it?
Surferwatch.
outward bound: this is personal
The cold dinner in a wet forest where every nighttime beastie needs warm blood.
byron bay cops and long memories
Big fellow Ben - carries an ugly snake bite scar on his face.
the eureka slab
Carlisle only remains standing. Moving his knees and hands a little this way a little that. He sleeps.
the table of mothers
Wakeful nights are many for Mad Tim, as he plots his unending calculus of weights and distances and horses names and jockeys’ colours.
Apr 18
mona vale – a litany of strange company
A dispassionate look at the friends we have to surf with. Herewith a list of malcontents from Mona vale.
nat young – my part in his downfall
Nat had a funny way of introducing himself to you when he dropped in - sometimes he would slice around into a full-blooded cutback and say hullo to your head with his elbow.
locals a problem? crowds?
Bony little demons all firey-eyed in the dark as they rip away their clothes and dress in black, to vanish into the cauldrons. Cackling at their good fortune.
petebowes.com 