long-time readers deserve explanations
the next thing
Dec 6
With surfer's sinus the key to delaying a rush of sea-water coming from the nose is not to look down. This is crucial.
this needs to be done
Here's a test to see if there is any of the real surfer left in you.
Lismore is a little to the west of Byron Bay - that place on the coast where everybody wears towels
Larry the Tragedy. This grave judgement from somebody as unblemished as Mr D Hynd.
Like most surfers Larry takes an empty carpark score anytime he gets handed one
- and Shearer just whickered away at his dagger blade up the back by the door. Stone on steel.
Big men attack like sharks on Diazepam.
Three big slow moving men with all their facial bones a little off-centre. Nobody needs to know anything here.
Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.
Stab is one bulky piece of work, plenty of advertising and working pages but not a lot of readable editorial.
If you looked halfway between James Dean and Bobby Rydell in 1958 then love was always in the air.