bearing down
four chapters
Mar 19
Apr 15
A dispassionate look at the friends we have to surf with. Herewith a list of malcontents from Mona vale.
Mar 1
This ocean sport has no rules and no joining fees - it's open slather out there and egos play with whales.
This year he wants a shot at Lennox and the longer the bastard talks the bigger the chance is that we will actually take him out there.
Warriewood sucks ... !
That's what I yelled out as he sprinted past me, back around to the guillotine's take-off. We kind of knew eachother.
Wordless, he beat Vince insensible, and then left him by the roadside. Roadkill.
The man had grabbed at the girls' bikini bottom and yanked it off.
Harry did not see himself as a diarist. He wrote to be able to know men better. To understand.
The provincial town, girls on horseback and another dead man.
They are unlike surfers these men, they never talk about loving the sea.
Years ago somebody put names to those two boulders that define the way out off the Mona Vale pool when the conditions are too big to contemplate paddling out from the beach.
catching waves, where does it feel best - in the remembering or in the telling