oscar’s timing, revisited
Surfing is timing
Surfing is timing
Harry did not see himself as a diarist. He wrote to be able to know men better. To understand.
There are no words to satisfy grief.
The provincial town, girls on horseback and another dead man.
They are unlike surfers these men, they never talk about loving the sea.
Years ago somebody put names to those two boulders that define the way out off the Mona Vale pool when the conditions are too big to contemplate paddling out from the beach.
catching waves, where does it feel best - in the remembering or in the telling
100 foot long, 40 knots and into the weather -
One year out of school and centuries distant from discipline and firm order - blessed with the euphoria of the road.
why food and drink and karaoke are a dangerous combination
Shintao beer is what’s left of Carlsberg’s disappointing venture into the Chinese boozer market, and since then China has given the krauts the arse, grabbed the formulae, increased the flavour, increased the alcohol content, increased the bottle size, and decreased the price.
About three months ago we hired him to fare the hull of some billionaire’s Maxi yacht, together with about twenty others, and with payday being Thursday it did not take long to see the damage he was doing to himself on Friday and Saturday.
‘ Have a f.cken look at this will yez! Those f.cken c.nts must live up to their ears in shit to be able to make a f.cken mess like this. F.cken dunno why the f.cken committee keeps f.cken doin’ this, all they f.cken do is f.cken break every f.cken thing every f.cken time. C.nts! '
Frank introduced us to the River the day after we took him home from the Harrington pub, the day he had been beaten insensible by the three dark men who had travelled up from Sydney looking for the local plantation. Three bikers.