only surfers [think] they know the feeling
thirty seconds is too long to remember
Sep 21
This ocean sport has no rules and no joining fees - it's open slather out there and egos play with whales.
Aged anywhere between twenty-five and forty, members of this category write their choice of surfing destinations for the coming weekend in their work diary only after they have completed extensive Internet research involving reading synoptic charts
Rufus went to Hawaii in the 1964 season to ride big Kaena Point and a large group of large gentlemen made themselves known to him at Haleiwa on his first night in town