how to be a prince of men amongst a kingdom of kooks
- or how to be a leader in the line-up
Sep 12
13 Comments
leg ropes, how they betrayed us.
Line up the last 35,000 surfers who threw their money at suspect charter-boat operators working western Sumatra - bring them in
fragments of a book. the attack.
His warm blood bubbled away down his face and into his gasping mouth.
fragments of a book – travelling with an australian
The blokes looked pretty ripped come to think about it
steve shearer, the hunt for lobster
The two basic rules of surfing are that - you have to be on a wave - you have to be on your feet.
alex leonard,his floater, his pink rashie.
what we don't need to see is the dance floor kit in the water.
the late nights
We would sit together in the back room, just the two of us, talking about Eternity
jordy smith cutting back
It doesn't matter who is who on top of the board these days, they all want to rip off one of these dis-functional showboat spraytop finpopping back-sliding cutbacks.
fragments of a book. hobbs and raffan.
Most days Hobbs and his mate Raffan sat idle on the front porch until one of them decided to start drinking.
north haven, stings like a bee.
You remember how Socrates bought it, the hemlock - the creeping cold. Some books a man shouldn't read.
petebowes.com 