being a schoolboy surfer in 1959
We had no time for their Prefects and sport-games, their cadet corps and exams, no time for their rules and commandments, their uniforms, their classrooms and lessons. Their floggings.
Sep 19
We had no time for their Prefects and sport-games, their cadet corps and exams, no time for their rules and commandments, their uniforms, their classrooms and lessons. Their floggings.
She was a small and beautiful girl, a capricious and effervescent youngster whose light shone bright at Bondi - her shining beacons were of brightness and naivety
1961, bondi is invaded by the transvestite dancers from the kings cross nightclub, 'the all male review' - everybody hurts
Then the hangover stood up and waved at me, waved a big red flag at me. Lots of drums in the background.
Everybody fell off in those conditions, and their loose boards smashed and collided their way to the beach - a rolling logjam of splintering balsa and spearing boards
Somebody pulled him off the still body and everybody drifted away. The big man's wallet lay by his side, come adrift in the turmoil.
Imagine counting every grain of sand on the beach, and in the park, and all those carried away in cars over the last 30 years. Tourists travelling from here to all corners of the earth. Imagine.
I don't see anybody doing this manoeuve, even up here at Byron where the waves are so easy you can surf them with your eyes closed
Ben Buckler, the world's bumpiest wave. A condensed appraisal.
So hard to resist the welcome breath of a summer north-easter, and the allure of that bone white arc of Bondi.
There was so much sand on the floor of the public bar at closing time that the tiles were covered, and after twenty years all the colours had been rubbed away, sandpapered off by the bare feet of a generation of shoeless drinkers.
One mile away to the south Bondi would greet the dawn like an overworked whore on a Sunday morning with dozens of French Letters littering her high water mark.
And when the long awaited set finally did arrive the only person in the right position to take it was Terry T-shirt, every bloody time. He had this uncanny knack of being able to time the arrival of the next set of waves, not only that but until his private alarm bell rang he’d be inside pinching all those waves as well, and all alone.
The ad also displaces the myth that surfers in the sixties all had long bleached hair, as the dudes in the pic are no doubt typical of the era and all have the look of Junior Executives ready for some hang-ten time.