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no name – the little right nobody rode

< – – –  This one, just in front the baths. I used to watch it between laps when I was a schoolboy training for the swimming team, not that it broke often but when you had the eye for wave, as we all did back then, you knew it was good but risky to ride on a balsa board knowing it would cop a heavy beating from the rocks and sea wall if you lost it.

This was many years before Chuck the Dude came ashore from America with his white jeans and leg rope and not long after toothpicks gave way to hollow cedar, about the time shapers had to wait for their balsa logs to arrive from Ecuador, hoping they might survive the long sea passage without being soaked as they were usually shipped across the Pacific as tarp-covered deck cargo.

Now Uge has caught it looking about just right: a quick little folding right-hander well away from the Bondi crowds.

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