sunny garcia cutting back
This is the Hawaiian way. Mr Garcia obviously had something else on his mind when he grabbed the big board this day, however that has not stopped him from a wholesome attack on this baby wave.
In fact it is relatively rare to see an Hawaiian bothering with such an inconsequential wave, unless of course he has spotted a couple of the paler new breed out in the water and is giving them a demo of how to use born-to-it skills on any wave and on any board. We note no singlet, this means he’s just out there having some fun.
As you do.
On a more technical note; we don’t like the head tuck – it appears to have no co-ordination with the trailing arm which of course is a heraldic for the necessary change of direction – There is also water trapped about both his feet and leading arm and the board appears to have clanked against the face, but who are we to disturb Mr Garcia in his work.