stephanie gilmore cutting back
There is a lot going on here – the back foot is getting out of the way after having done it’s job far too well, the front leg is waaaaaay too upright and she is desperately trying to stay on the board by dragging her hands down the face . Ms Gilmore’s face shows the strain of getting it back around and being a comp she probably hopes that the beerpigs in the judging tent aren’t as sharp as they are paid to be.
She will come around a lot slower and nobody likes to lose speed when everyone’s watching. All her weight is on the wrong side of the board. She’s heading for a full stop. that’s why the right knee has gone into neutral.
One of her problems here is that she has gone for the manoeuvre and forgotten about the construction of the wave – all her concentration is on balance and self-preservation – She needs to tip forward against the momentum she has established.
We judge this a risky sequence.
You can partly blame the wave Pete. That’s at Bells, right? Where down the line speed ain’t hard to acquire but transferring it to a face that’s angled less like a Le Mans berm than the north end of Narrabeen carpark is key.
Off kilter though she is, it’s a fair whack of spray she’s shot skyward.
eggzakkerly Stu, she isn’t surfing the ‘ whole’ wave – just the section that ends in that fine spray shot, then it ends.