the beating
Somebody pulled him off the still body and everybody drifted away. The big man's wallet lay by his side, come adrift in the turmoil.
Jun 10
Somebody pulled him off the still body and everybody drifted away. The big man's wallet lay by his side, come adrift in the turmoil.
The provincial town, girls on horseback and another dead man.
He comes and goes through the unkempt gardens and weeds, slipping through the back door like a thief - sometimes his mother calls for him.
Why being a surfer and a cook helps with the ladies
Imagine counting every grain of sand on the beach, and in the park, and all those carried away in cars over the last 30 years. Tourists travelling from here to all corners of the earth. Imagine.
I don't see anybody doing this manoeuve, even up here at Byron where the waves are so easy you can surf them with your eyes closed
What may be construed as sex in public places may be something else entirely.
May 26
Watching a fellow eat a hamburger can be enlightening, in a philosophical sense.
Surfoplanes and their place in history - a meaty exploration of values.
They are unlike surfers these men, they never talk about loving the sea.
Me and a pretty young kid, and there’s the wall over there with youngsters about her age on the game and waiting on a slow death for about ten bucks a toss. What a bloody nightmare that joint is.
Bellows of rain filled tempest swept inland from all seaward points of the compass.
The surfer, in his boundless mothersea, holds sacred the one square metre of rootless swirl that separates him from the several out of town oafs who have paddled out and surrounded him.
She fills her short skirt with health and hurry and she fiddles and fiddles with her coins and notes. Gary sits up shakingly erect and his black-toothed smile would scare off a Corso rat.