south – the eye of the needle. story 16
just one explanation
Posts by peterbowes
May 13
7 Comments
how having a good cutback gets the best job.
A man is only as good as his last wave - so what if your job depended on it?
Surferwatch.
outward bound: this is personal
The cold dinner in a wet forest where every nighttime beastie needs warm blood.
byron bay cops and long memories
Big fellow Ben - carries an ugly snake bite scar on his face.
the eureka slab
Carlisle only remains standing. Moving his knees and hands a little this way a little that. He sleeps.
the table of mothers
Wakeful nights are many for Mad Tim, as he plots his unending calculus of weights and distances and horses names and jockeys’ colours.
Apr 18
mona vale – a litany of strange company
A dispassionate look at the friends we have to surf with. Herewith a list of malcontents from Mona vale.
nat young – my part in his downfall
Nat had a funny way of introducing himself to you when he dropped in - sometimes he would slice around into a full-blooded cutback and say hullo to your head with his elbow.
locals a problem? crowds?
Bony little demons all firey-eyed in the dark as they rip away their clothes and dress in black, to vanish into the cauldrons. Cackling at their good fortune.
the advantages of standing upright on a wave, considering the choices
the last wave before dinner
more women in the surf means no more problems. 1 of a series
Women though do belong in the surf, and they belong all around it. This can used to our advantage.
the shaka .. why do we all have to be so HAWAIIAN?
It's ok to be gay - that's what the Shaka could be.
surfing. the sacred hours and how a happy marriage eliminates them
Those not familiar with the sacred surfing hours might find the information below helpful.
longboarders, their positive side
The women never change. Only the long-boarders grow old.
owning warriewood and what it entailed.
Cook was the one with the megaphone, his initials were engraved on it. Pity he couldn't read a weather map. Then Boof showed up.
petebowes.com 