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our surfing heritage: the uncomfortable truth

This is us.

This is how we once saw ourselves, especially on Oahu, a place where we Busted Down the Doors because we were The Riders Of The Storm, better known as The Golden Breed, forever on The Search where We Rode Giants and Stepped into Liquid, we rode Blazing Boards, hit The Beach Party and Chased Mavericks. We Rode the Wild Surf and Ripped the Curl.

Our early heroes were Duke Kahanamoku and George Downing Snr, Greg Noll and Ricky Grigg, Linda Benson. Gidget and Troy Donohue. Now we have Slats, MF, Parko and all those macho Brazilians.

But this ^ was us. We were The Bronzed Aussies.

So true to our heritage. Because Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling.

~~

When was the last time, the first time someone admitted to enjoying an Agatha Christie novel on a ‘What are you reading‘  topic on surfing website forum. I’ve looked. There isn’t. 

Swellnet’s readers can’t get past Witzig and Jarratt and the Realsurf bunch are hooked on everything Nick Carroll writes in books or online, excepting the occasional odd-bod who pretends he reads and understands Socrates.

us.jpg

This is us, striving to identify with our ancient Hawaiian heritage.

But what a heritage !

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There you have it, or them, our illustrious surfing forbears. Our true heritage, and all of them bloody Poms.

The shame of it.

 

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