surfing and deep thinking
< This here pic is of Art Faunce meeting Ted McDing at a Maroubra get-together last month, hard to believe it but this was the first time they ever ran into each other in the water.
You see, a statement like that, in surfing context, means they ran into each other. Like they didn’t just accidentally meet, which is what running into someone means outside of the surfing context. Except not only in surfing did they run into each other, they also accidentally met.
Round and around we go.
This is why surfing is different and surfers are strange dumb animals of only moderate intent. You can’t ever become a surfer, you have to be born one, and being born one means you can understand all ^ that.
So much for philosophy.
The question just about everyone can understand is this .. should Art have jammed a TC style heel-down snap-back cover in that little open pocket there, and possibly speared Ted an inch coming out, or should he have just gone for the overhead view of the carnage McDing has already created by swanking off a Sainsbury floater ?
header poster of tc pipe snap by redbubble