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Posts tagged ‘The Wedge’

this is how some sessions begin in the carpark

Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.

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you’re only as good as your last wave

Why you should stop surfing at 29 for the sake of the youth.

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the youngest daughter

Me and a pretty young kid, and there’s the wall over there with youngsters about her age on the game and waiting on a slow death for about ten bucks a toss. What a bloody nightmare that joint is.

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