the witness, the second interview
The boy who told the truth
Feb 26
The hidden right that rears up around the headland down there and travels 300 yards to its brutal end against the cliffs. More unforgiving slabs.
But first, dinner.
Warriewood sucks ... !
That's what I yelled out as he sprinted past me, back around to the guillotine's take-off. We kind of knew eachother.
Why being a surfer and a cook helps with the ladies
catching waves, where does it feel best - in the remembering or in the telling